Great Loop: Alligator River, Albemarle Sound, Elizabeth City

Storm Cell over Abemarle Sound

May 3rd, 4th, 5th, 2022

Over three days in early May we travelled thru one of the most sparsely populated regions in North Carolina.  The Atlantic ICW traverses a portion of the state that is swampy and barely above sea level.  It is not suitable for home building as storm surge tides move across the low country at will.  Still, it is a striking area to visit.  The night skies are replete with stars.  With no city lights, you can see the Milky Way.

The first night we anchored on the Alligator River.  After sunset, we could see the rotating beacons of the lighthouses on the Outer Banks.  The weather became unsettled and thunder storms moved through.  Great flashes of lightning illuminated the night sky.  We double checked the set of our anchor, set a drag alarm and went to bed.  We rose a couple of times, before morning, to check that the anchor was holding and to monitor the weather.

The next morning we hauled anchor before 7:30 and cruised north, up the Alligator River, to begin our passage of Albemarle Sound.  The Sound has a nasty reputation of truly uncomfortable conditions due to the long fetch across which the wind can raise large waves, often on your beam.  As we approached the sound we saw a sailboat disappear into a rain squall and lightning strikes in the same area.  We checked our weather radar (see above), and found a large storm cell across our path.  We executed a crisp 180 degree turn to avoid the storm cell.

After 45 minutes, the cell cleared the area by moving out to sea. (image below)  We reversed course again and struck out across the sound accompanied by friends on Wild Life.  All was tolerable for the first ~ 7 miles.  Waves were building, so we responded by kicking our speed up to 14 knots and scooting the remainder of the distance until we entered the Pasquotank River and it's protection from the freshening winds. 

The remainder of the trip into Elizabeth City went well.  We passed through the drawbridge and found a dock with available space at a Christian University.  They asked for a donation for overnight moorage.  A very good deal!  In addition to the dockage, they gave Beth a lovely rose....  Hospitality with a personal touch!

Being good sailors, and happy to be ashore, we immediately went looking for lunch and a cold beer.  We found both.  We got a burrito at a Mexican restaurant to go.  Breweries will allow dogs inside if all they serve is beer. (State Law)  So we took our burrito into the brewery, got cold beers, and celebrated having survived our passage of Albemarle Sound.

We waited until the storm cell moved out to sea, then we proceeded across the sound.

Wild Life passing north through the Alligator River Swing Bridge

Other Boats crossing the Albemarle Sound with Amy Marie

The Coast Guard was on duty as we crossed the sound.

We transitioned to the Pasquotank River and are approaching Elizabeth City

The wind has less fetch so the water is much calmer.

Happy to be ashore, we went looking for lunch in Elizabeth City

A rain squall hit as we were looking for a lunch spot

We hung out under an awning for ~ 15 minutes until the rain passed

We got a burrito, took it into a brew pub that allowed dogs and played "Cards Against Humanity"

It was a truly bizarre game that resulted in lots of laughter!

The beer may have helped too!

The weather cleared sufficiently to go outside.

We had to pass through the drawbridge to find dockage

We  tied up for the night at the docks of a Christian University.

They asked for a donation, seemed reasonable

They also give each boater who uses their docks, a rose!

Beth's Rose!

Track Logs