Great Loop: Upper Cook Cutoff to Demopolis

Sunrise on Upper Cook's Cutoff 

November 14th, 2021

Today we travelled a rural and sparsely populated portion of the Tombigbee River from Upper Cook's Cutoff to Demopolis Alabama. We woke to temperature which were hovering near freezing.  Thank goodness for the Webasto heater.  It maintained very comfortable inside temperatures.  We were travelling with two other boats that wanted to get started right at sunrise.  Our alarm went off 30 minutes prior to sun up so we could start the coffee, check the oil, pull the anchor and fall in line behind Godspeed and Adventure Awaits.  It was a quick start to the day.  Breakfast would be prepared once we were underway.  

It was difficult to focus on our departure tasks as the sun and morning river mists were creating compelling scenes meant to be savored.  I kept my camera with me so I could capture glimpses of the morning unfolding around us.

Soon we were underway and in convoy with the other Loopers.  The river remained calm and the weather warmed as we traversed this rural river section.  Fall colors were past their peak, yet still golden.  Each breeze released leaves to float through the air on down onto the river.  In a matter of days the trees would be bare.  The next good storm would transform them to stark, winter silhouettes

The ruralness of this portion of the river was reinforced when we were passed by two local hunters with two trophy bucks, upside down, legs in the air, in the front of their Jon boat.  Deer season was open.

The next sight was the chalk cliffs.  Originally formed as the floor of an ancient ocean, they are now thrust up along side the Tombigbee River.  They represent quite a change from the forested shore line which we had followed for miles.

Godspeed, from Henderson NC, by the Chalk Bluffs

The White Chalk Bluffs of the Tombigbee River

The remainder of the trip went well.  Beth did most of the piloting today.  I enjoyed an afternoon nap as she passed two tows and guided Amy Marie downstream.

A Three Barge Wide Tow

By early afternoon we had reached Demopolis, with a population of 7,500, it is the largest city in Marengo County Alabama.  It was founded in the early 1800s after the fall of Napoleon's Empire, by a group of French expatriates.  They were a mix of exiled Bonapartists and other French refugees who had settled in the United States after the overthrow of the colonial government in Saint-Domingue by enslaved workers.

Today's inhabitants graciously greeted us, at the fuel dock of Kingfisher Marina, with a packet of information on what to do in town and the full range of services available at the marina.  They run twice daily shuttles into town, have an onsite laundry, travel lift and mechanics for boat repair, showers, a small store and very helpful staff.  All for $1.25/ft/per night.  It is a good spot to re-provision for the approximately 4 day trip to Mobile.  This is important as the next leg of the trip is through an area with a dearth of facilities.  We will be anchoring out for 3-4 nights until we reach Mobile.

Kingfisher Marina

Next Stop - Mobile