Great Loop: Goose Pond to Shellmound to Chattanoogo

Free Dock at Shellmound Park

When travelling the river system your location is by reference to the "mile mark".  We spent a night at the Shellmound Park free dock, adjacent to Nickajack dam and lock.  It is at mile mark 424.  Shellmound was a quiet and tranquil spot to spend the night.  We had departed Goose Pond earlier in the day in the company of 2 other boats. Sweet Day, a Camano Troll and Mirth, a nice 40 foot trawler.  We got an early start as we wanted to beat a storm front, which was following right on our heals, to the Shellmound anchorage.  We were not anxious about the rain, it was the forecast of winds gusting to 30 knots that we wanted to avoid.

The Tennessee river must be a major source of electrical power.  The dams generate hydro-electric power and we have seen two nuclear power plants along the shore.  The river water is used for cooling and the river water temperature is monitored to insure the water temperature rise in less than 5 degrees Fahrenheit.

As we travelled east, the fall colors increased in intensity.  We were not yet seeing the peak, but it continued to build toward that crescendo.  

We knew we we would soon be tied to dock when we saw the dam and lock come into view.  Once again Amy Marie had done well to transport us to our destination.  It is always with a sense of awe that I approach a lock and dam.  On one side, the lock is open, beckoning us to come inside and be lifted to a new adventure.  On the other side, water is cascading through the gates and down the spillway, boiling and splashing and cascading, creating an area of fast flowing and turbulent water.  A large illuminated sign alerts you that this is "Dangerous Water", so the wise mariner will keep clear.

Sweet Pea in Nickajack Lock

Mirth in Nickajack Lock

 All three of us chose a spot to tie to a floating bollard against the wall.  There are ten locks on the Tenn-Tom  and will fit a tow size of 8 barges in a single lockage, each lock has an  interior dimension of 600'L x 110'W and have a total lift of 341'. They operate 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

Beth has looped her line around the bollard and we are on our way up

We really wish Amy Marie had a mid-ship cleat. To control the motion of the vessel while the water in the lock is turbulent from the filling and emptying process, the ideal line location in mid-ship.  So we have tried two techniques.  Both are shown here.  A white line is taut between the bow and stern cleats with an eye at midship.  A second white line, with a loop on the end, is threaded through the eye and then placed around the bollard.  That line can then be pulled tight from the cockpit.

You will also see a black line in the photo.  This line is secured at the forward cleat, looped around the bollard and then Beth holds the end while standing in the cockpit.  She has the option of looping it around the stern cleat for a more secure hold.

She prefers the black line technique at this point, so that has become our standard method.

While water was rising in Nickajack Lock we began to smell bakery aromas, a very pleasant smell.  We looked around both while in the lock and after departing and could not find the source of the smell.  We continued on the short distance to Shellmound and docked our boats.  When we assisted Sweet Day at the dock, Kate came out and offered us a fresh baked cookie.  What a treat and mystery solved.  She productively spent her time in the lock baking cookies!  No wonder Tim is such a happy skipper.

An old cabin chimney we found while hiking at Shellmound.

Our day ended with a campfire on the edge of the water, near our dock.  The crew of Sweet Pea invited us over for "docktails".  As the sun set and the sounds of night crept in, we huddled around the fire getting to know each other and swapping information that boaters find useful.  Sweet Pea was three quarters of  the way around the loop.  So we learned much as they shared what they enjoyed and had experienced.  One technique they enjoyed was to find the New York Times City Guide editorial that described what to do in a city in 36 hours, or a weekend visit.  This seemed like a great idea.  One we hope to incorporate into our travels.

The next day from Shellmound to Chattanooga was the prettiest day of the trip so far.  We traveled through hills in gorge like terrain.  The fall colors continued to build, the small towns hugged the edge of the water, the gorge walls protected us from the winds, and the current got swifter. 

One of many abandoned coal loading facilities we passed

Boat houses lined up at a marina

Houses along the river as we neared Chattanooga

Chattanooga Art Museum

Chattanooga Water Front

Amy Marie at dock in Chattanooga